Tuesday, May 5, 2015

The Suit: How, And Why




 WE all fell for the glamorous cocktail blazer last winter - that sharp (ideally velvet) jacket which transformed straight leg jeans or sharpened up a chunky polo neck for dinner dates. Easy. This spring, it's about the full suit: thanks to Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Paul Smith... and Zara, head-to-toe masculine tailoring has stepped out of the realm of uptight office wear to lead a new mood of sexy insouciance. 
Alessandro Michele at Gucci has been busy blurring the gender boundaries with his'n'hers tailoring since arriving at the house earlier this year - the new suit shape he's spearheading offers a roomy fit and, crucially, comfort with a cool edge. What you need to know now? First, super-skinny cuts are out, the trouser shape to wear now is more spacious, and has a tapered or wide straight leg. Second, the super-flattering double-breasted jacket has risen from the ashes of Nineties preppy style to lead a mood of pared-back, polished old-school glamour which feels very now (see Rebecca Hall in a beautiful plum Prada suit at the premier of her new film Tumbledown in New York). Third: it's not just about black (gasp). Inky blue, cream, brown and pinstripe are far chicer alternatives.
When it comes to styling your suit, there's a few simple tricks to follow: T-shirts work better than shirts now (see Argentinian model Mica Arganaraz avoiding the clichéd off-duty uniform of skinny black jeans, instead pairing her tailoring with a simple grey tee when running between castings), flat leather sandals are a modern match, as are gleaming white Nike Air Force Ones, but pool sliders or Birkenstocks are out. Lastly, try a brown or rust-red (rather than black) leather belt, or obi style if you're feeling bold, for a more laid-back note. 
Easy, right? It is. The best part about the new suiting is that pulling together a sharp look first thing in the morning just became a breeze.  

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